After a long, beautiful drive through the Pecos Valley in northern New Mexico, followed by an, at times, whiplash-inducing drive up FR 223 to Iron Gate Campground, the Hamilton Mesa trail 249 puts the southern Pecos Wilderness on bare display, and those willing to endure the drive and, all things considered, easy hike will have the rich, stunning landscape revealed to them. Just don't forget your sunscreen!
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| Camp in Mora Flats |
History
Hamilton Mesa and Mora Flats are popular hiking and fishing destinations in the Pecos Wilderness, northern New Mexico's largest wilderness (and a favorite of mine). The Pecos Wilderness has a special place in my heart because it is where I did my first successful backpacking trip, ironically, a failed trip to Lake Katherine where we unknowingly stopped less than a quarter mile from our goal. I consider it a success because I didn't have to bail out, unlike previous trips.
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| View of the southern 12ers of the Pecos Wilderness |
While I am unaware of any particular historical facts surrounding Hamilton Mesa and Mora Flats, the history surrounding the region is old and deep. Like most of northern New Mexico, the Pecos Wilderness was once divvied up into Land Grants handed down by the Spanish government for communal use among the area's settlers. The histories of these grants are controversial, so I will not attempt to give more than this cursory explanation. Just west of Hamilton Mesa, the Pecos River runs alongside Beatty's Cabin, the site of an early 20th century Anglo ranch that has a book dedicated to it. To the southwest lies Penitente peak, named for self-flagellating religious fraternity of the region, and Lake Katherine, rumored to have been named by J. Robert Oppenheimer for his friend, Katherine Chaves Page (I personally doubt that he named it, and I think this stems from an anachronistic "legend" that he named it after his wife, Katherine "Kitty" Oppenheimer), nestled beneath the slopes of Santa Fe Baldy. North of the Mesa are Cerrito Del Padre, named for a hermit padre who would live in the woods and give blessings to the shepherds who visited him in the wilderness, and Chimayosos peak, named for the people of that famed and stunning valley community.
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| Pecos Baldy (left) and East Pecos Baldy (right) |
Why go into this much detail about the history of the Pecos Wilderness? What is so enticing about the Hamilton Mesa trail is that if the Pecos Wilderness were a symphony, Hamilton Mesa could act as an overture. Every >12,000' peak south of North Truchas is visible from the Mesa's gentle slopes. Where else can you stand in one point and see the imposing, vaguely Lovecraftian, Trailrider's Wall stretch from East Pecos Baldy to South Truchas Peak, and, at the same time, marvel at the twin cirques of Santa Fe Baldy's East face that so starkly contrast its West face?
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| LtoR: Trailrider's Wall, South Truchas, Medio Truchas, North Truchas, Chimayosos |
Options for hiking from Hamilton Mesa abound as well. The popular spots include Beatty's Flats and Cabin, Mora Flats, and Pecos Falls. The spots that are on my radar but have scant information on the web are Gascon Point, Santiago Lake, and Lost Bear Lake.
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| Early view in the hike overlooking Valdez canyon |
Day 0
We drove up the unpaved FR 223 to the Iron Gate Campground where we would spend the first night, despite the high wind warnings which were supposed to abate by sunset. This drive affords excellent views of the southern 12ers and the Pecos Valley as it pulls away from view. However, high clearance is a necessity, and I would err on the side of 4WD, though it may not be necessary.
We set up camp in a surprisingly empty campground replete with firewood, and enjoyed a clear night with minimal light pollution. I was lucky enough to espy at least half a dozen shooting stars. We were woken up in the middle of the night by a large hiking party from (where else?) Texas getting a late start on the trail.
Several key factors favored this trail. For one, I was joined by my good friend Seth, who has been a part of several of the trips featured on this blog. Needing a break from months of overtime, Seth decided to take a long Memorial Day weekend and fly out to New Mexico to visit me in Los Alamos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque. Being rather outspoken about his love of all things Colorado, I wanted to show Seth that mountain scenery isn't exclusive to that admittedly awe-inspiring state, but it's a hell of a lot easier to find some solitude in New Mexico than our neighbor to the north. Hamilton Mesa is not only on the easier side, reducing complications from altitude adjustment (the entire 11.5 mile loop described here only requires 1800' of net elevation gain), but its relatively lower elevation (10,483' at highest point) would mean virtually no snow after this thankfully wet winter.
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| "Lost" on top of Hamilton Mesa |
Day 1
Heading off on our hike, we wanted to hike north across the Mesa until meeting up with the Bob Grounds trail going east into the Rio Valdez valley, then follow the Valdez trail until reaching Mora Flats, a series of giant meadows nestled in a canyon with a lush mountain stream.
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| The hike greets you with immediate views of the southeastern Pecos |
The majority of the climb happens in the first two miles, along which eastern views of the Rio Valdez valley present themselves nicely for some early photo-ops. The trail eventually passes through a wooden fence (presumably to keep cows out/in), and shortly after Hamilton Mesa begins to open itself up. Instantly, we were treated with views of Lake Peak, Santa Fe Baldy, and Redonda Peak, as well as the southern Pecos Valley. Unfortunately, we were probably a few weeks too early for wildflower season.
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| The northern high country greets you as you hike across the Mesa |
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| The Mesa itself is very gradual |
As we walked we encountered a fair bit of fauna. We were treated to mule deer sightings the day prior, but today we encountered a grouse, a herd of elk, and a . . . mountain lion? We were hiking with Seth in the lead, and he got suddenly spooked, saying something to the effect of "it's a bobcat!" I looked up and caught a glimpse of a blur running through the woods, but did not see nearly enough to identify what it was. After the trip, Seth realized he didn't know what a bobcat looked like, and was forced to conclude that what he saw was, in fact, a mountain lion!
We also passed some less-than-wildlife, the group of about 12 hikers (all adult men) from the night before, camping on the Mesa. We chit-chatted, and they were surprisingly reluctant to tell us any details about their itinerary (I like to ask for their sake in case they get lost, and, in this case, for my sake so I have a better chance of avoiding sharing camp with a dozen people). One person appeared to be the ring-leader of the group, like a wilderness guide, so this was clearly some kind of guided trip, but we never determined the affiliation.
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| Intersection with the Bob Grounds trail |
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| Hiking across the meadow looking for the trail |
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| Taking in the high peak scenery |
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| Admiring the still snowy Sangre de Cristos |
Continuing north, the Pecos high country came into view. The long stretch of unbroken above-treeline ground (a rarity in New Mexico due to its longitude) from Pecos Baldy, across Trailrider's Wall, to the Truchas group, heading West across Chimayosos to the Trouble Benchmark, and continuing north to unseen Jicarita Peak, was on full display. We passed two springs that were flowing fully, but I cannot speak to how they may be during drier seasons.
Eventually we met up with the Bob Grounds trail and some green, grassy meadows presented themselves to the north and east, along with views to the Cebolla benchmark to the northeast. At this point the trail disappeared. We spent about an hour looking for the trail, thinking we may have lost it or it was under snow, and eventually I dropped my pack and decided to head east until I eventually would have to cross a trail if there was one. I managed to find it, and returned to Seth to inform him. At this point, the large group had caught up with us and stopped for lunch, and the guide, who had clearly spent more time than I in the Pecos, informed us that the trail down to the Valdez canyon was intermittent and more of a route. We followed the trail I had found, which did end up disappearing now and again, and with the help of GPS, which was accurate for this portion of the trail, made it to our intersection with the Valdez trail. For the sake of people who may attempt this trail without GPS, I'll do my best to describe the route.
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| The trail runs right below this "hump" from left to right |
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| Large meadow near the trail intersection |
Going north, after passing the sign for the Bob Grounds trail, continue north, and, after a small copse of trees, go right (east) right below the steeper, wooded portion of the slope, but above the green meadow. If you go this direction long enough, you will encounter an obvious trail that is easy to follow for the next half mile or so. From what I remember, there comes a point where there is a rock cairn on your immediate right, and look to your left (east) to find a large pole sticking out of the ground. Make a beeline to it, and the trail reappears headed south. From here the general route is easy to follow, though the trail may disappear and reappear, and as long as you lose altitude you will eventually hit the river.
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| Following the intermittent trail south into Valdez canyon |
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| Looking back up the partially snowy Mesa |
The Valdez trail was easy to follow, but, contrary to the USFS map, the trail does cross the river twice. If it is flowing high enough to prevent a rock hop or log climb, I would recommend sticking to the steeper west bank, even though there is no trail, for the first (northerly) crossing, since the trail spends only a dozen yards or so on the east bank, but the second (southerly) crossing will require a crossing, as it is much longer.
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| Dropping in to flank the Rio Valdez |
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| Hiking into the Flats |
With wet boots, we hiked the rest of the way to Mora Flats, where we set up camp and relaxed after our surprisingly strenuous hike. I am mostly acclimated to the altitude, having been here for 2+ weeks, but searching for the trail put on a couple extra unexpected miles and a nasty sunburn on my nose, face, and neck. The flats themselves are two sets of meadows. We camped at the northern set of meadows, which, while large, is not as impressive as the southern set of meadows, which would have required a wet crossing to get to. Camping is abundant at both, and I wish I had a rod, reel, and license to catch some cutthroat trout and cook them over the fire.
Day 2
Our second and last day was mostly uneventful, with a gradual climb out of the Valdez canyon and back onto the Hamilton Mesa trail. We made it back to the trailhead by 9:30 AM, and headed into Santa Fe for some much-deserved Blake's Lotaburger.
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| Reentering the woods from the northerly Flats |
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| Looking at the southerly flats from the trail |
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| Lots of burn in the surrounding area |
Miscellany
I think I said last blog that I was going to do the Art Loeb trail, and then I was off to New Mexico. Well, I tried the Art Loeb trail, but due to an unexpected (serious and not mine) trail injury, Art Loeb did not work out. But, I had the fun experience of being stuck at a trailhead without a car and no cell service, which is a pretty miserable feeling. Thankfully, the fine people at the Daniel Boone Scout Camp were able to help us out, letting us use their phone to call for a ride and giving medical treatment. Given the situation, things could have been much worse, and we were grateful for their kindness and for the fact that they were even there at all, as it was the off-season, and there is normally nobody there unless a local school is having a field trip there, which was the case this time.
I did do one trip that I did not report here, and that was another attempt of Caballo Mountain identical to that detailed in an old post here, with the difference being that I backpacked in and camped overnight, then attempted the shorter 8 mile day hike the next day, followed by a 3 mile backpack out. This time, I took my GPS so I knew I could find the trail. What I found instead was a vague semblance of what had been a trail, completely overgrown with brush and obstructed by treefall. I gave it the old college try, and made it about a quarter mile before a branch snapped back and hit me in the eye. At that point, I realized the climb would take hours, and gave up to head back. For all intents and purposes, that trail no longer exists, and, at best, it would be considered a route.
Mountain lion?! Yikes!
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